Catch Up

Our travels did not often take us to Internet so when we had it I was all business. So I got very behind. But to briefly catch up:

Kevin and I continued down the west coast of Italy and stopped in San Marino, my haunt when a college student the summer I backpacked alone through Europe. I stayed there for 5 weeks painting and its an amazing site- the top of a mountain. Unfortunately once we took the bus up there we had rain and I was beat so it was a lovely dinner but not much touring.  The next morning we headed back down the mountain and took trains south to Bari, a bus to a ferry, an overnight ferry to Greece, a bus and two trains to FINALLY make it to Nafplio, Greece, our destination for a few weeks. Whew. The worse was not ponying up for a state room and trying to sleep in the airline chairs with the TV blasting all night. I felt quite tortured.

Nafplio was warm, lovely and fairly quiet as we were so off season. We stayed in a house in a village outside it and that was beautiful with everything we could want.. My son Z. joined us immediately as he was in Athens.  Dan and Stewart, Carly and Scott came a few days later.  We had a fabulous time together, made a Greek Thanksgiving feast with a gorgeous table (thanks to Stew) , fresh salads, beets, fish grilled, chicken kabobs, chocolate cake to die for, best baklava in the world- I could go on and on...these young folks can cook!  It was magical.  Much wine flowed! And the sun and warth were very healing.

But eating was still tenuous and I decided the emergency room  was worth trying again. I still had no word to go home from my brothers, but my heath was an increasing issue. That attempt failed so I made an appointment with an internist in Athens.  He found my upper and lower abdomen was indeed filled with liquid from an unknown source. Also something where I complained of pain he did not recognize so advised going back to the states for more tests.

So there it was- confirmation I was not crazy and just imagining I looked like a fishbowl and the call to home was to first address health, then mom.  It was at this time my brothers finally confirmed Mom was dying. God. They were hesitant tot tell her I was sick so now I will fly in tomorrow to get help and hope I see her in time, but I may not. It is sad, but I am trying to understand and accept this strange state of affairs. My colleague in the program, Brad, has come to Paris to see the program through the last week.

It may seem an inglorious end to a truly phenomenal journey. But you always work hard for the high points and I'm down with that.  I will wait the next part of these days and hope the universe keeps my spirit in one piece...will keep you "blogged" once I do finish this next step.


Thanks for reading my friends!

Ah, Venice!

Ah, Venice!

Still recovering from a slight infection, I’ll admit I was road weary and less enthusiastic than one might expect on the prospect of heading to our first night without work obligations in Venice. I say this as it may have flavored my experience- but I doubt it.

We arrived without any missteps except to have not had reservations for the last train, and buying them on the train cost more than it should have. But here we were, Venice!  My heart sang- it is an unearthly, breathtaking place, canals in the fading light of day, lights shimmering to life, a truly unforgettable island...Now my thrill as a student 40 years ago came back to me, the textures of walls and muted colors, the worn orientals and shabby but clean lace curtains up an endless winding staircase in a little pension I could afford at the time- and the view! Looking out at the water. Magic. 

So with excellent directions we took the “bus” boat toward our stop where we had reservations recommended to us in a "“charming”neighborhood part of Venice.  In a rush of romantic ecstasy I turned to Kevin and said ‘Let’s make believe it is our anniversary- and have it in Venice!’ Ok Ok, so I had a few expectations.

We walked along the canal, nice, and then turned up a narrow dark corridor- tall flat walls o either side nicely tagged,- which I had actually seen enough of already along every train track-Hoping for something more here…. The only light was the somewhat jarring  lit  sign of the hotel at the end of the street- which is a generous name for these narrow walkways covered with planks. To be fair, there are many such streets in towns in Italy but usually the buildings have a little character.

We rang the bell and were fairly promptly buzzed in. We faced storage, a stairwell with a lift attached and no indication what to do. We decided heading up was the best choice and came to a completely plain unmarked door.  Kevin indicated maybe we should head back down but I thought, well- and tried the door.  It opened into a room with a clear little window that seemed to say “reception? To me.  A reserved young man gestured for us to come in. It was full of tables- the breakfast room I guess. Where was that terrace I saw in the pictures?  Well, it is November.  The man confirmed who we were and. to room 7- I was grateful it was not  five floors up ( this could still be counted as a plus),  The door opened to what was I guessed a family room- a double bed on a frame with a white coverlet and two twin bed frames with  orange covers.  This also turned out to be a plus since it was the only color in the room.  The room was antiseptic to the point that makes hospital rooms look inviting. It had two small chipboard desks which I recognized was the quality of the  first furniture I ever bought at Office Depot, a plain plywood wardrobe, ,several old grey metal folding chairs and cold tile with no visual characteristics at all  across the floor. Usually one sees ceramic tile as a good thing, but in this case is was just very cold and beige.  That floor was begging for a throw rug. The bathroom, white, was large and clean, definitely a good thing in general circumstances.  But seriously, I had been in Econo Lodge rooms in the states with more character. This was Venice, you can’t find an old wooden kitchen chair?

Our proprietor pointed out the amenities- a phone, a bathroom, a hairdryer, a TV, and how to use the keys.  He said on my inquiry he could recommend several properties for dinner and left.  On closer examination we found a notice about having internet in the room. Great! I had forgotten to ask him where the closest internet café was.  The room now came up one notch. Unfortunately, when we tried to get it and then went to ask how to get it ,  an old man that replaced him who had no idea about the internet.  Well, too early for dinner and way too ugly for sex.  I took a nap and Kevin played with the TV. Not an auspicious start. On waking up and looking at the TV I did see there was one image in the room- a small old black and white photo print of Venice, hung  in the corner above the 12” TV in case you wanted to have your eyes stray from the screen.

Ok, we had to make the best of this- we will go out into this charming neighborhood.  Once you got away from the hotel it really wasn’t bad= you could see the canals and walk over little bridges. We found the recommended restraint- by the old man- but I thought, let’s go on, maybe we can find candles. WE didn’t. We would have had to walk much further into Venice I guess and we were hungry… so we walked back and gave it a chance. I even sat next to Kevin at the table (having refused to be seated with  20- somethings on my first night away from the program- he muttered something about my jacket- hey, I know it’s ugly but I’m trying to be romantic here! It was the only thing that fir in my bag! It doesn’t mean I am a student!)  Anyway, our wine came, our lovely plastic bottle of natural wine, I guess we were to share from the bottle, and a plate of the gummiest asparagus lasagna I ever tasted, after it cooled down from the microwave. So, who had an appetite anyway? Oh right- we are in Italy!  I was beginning to forget.

When we returned  we looked through old literature to find something about Venice since we could not look anything up on the internet.  The old man came out and I introduced myself. He solemnly shook my hand, Nice. “Room cold?:” he asked. Yes! I answered thinking he may have a solution. He shook his head sadly “Yes.” he said.

My mood darkened. This time on the way to our room I realized there were piles of bed frames and chipboard furnature even the 70’s probably rejected stored outside our room. This blew the theory the room was horrible so children wouldn’t ruin it. The ugly  room reappeared and I found myself wishing I would wake up in Hudson.  As I laid down my hands were outside the covers and they started to hurt. I was convinced it was a complete lack of aesthetic sensibility setting in and I quickly pulled them under the covers..Not quick enough I guess as my arms were covered in bites the next day.  Perhaps my heart will sing again once we venture into Venice. Ah, Venice!.

Levanto, Italy-The SAE Meeting

Our meeting with everyone in Levanto, Italy went so well. What a pleasure to see everyone together again! My stress level with feeling poorly and Mom failing at home was very high but I was determined to have a wonderful rich meeting with everyone. I managed it. The first night the group had separated into gender groups, surprisingly. I wondered into the “mens” room and they were clearly bonding and booted me out. In the hallway a huge circle of women were deeply into reconnecting.  I stood to speak to them and within minutes the women power seduced me and I was confessing all my woes!  But they took me in, comforted me and assured me it was perfectly fine to tell them how I really was- they preferred it.  So I thank those young women for their warmth. The next morning a huge palm was laid across our doorway in the hostel (former monastery) and I did feel blessed.  The students had a morning meeting with me each day and then I met with pairs for an hour all afternoon.  It was a full two days but the work we did on the outlines for their projects made it worthwhile.  Everyone participated in an installation I made of stones by adding one they brought from their travels- it was a meaningful ritual for me and I think the students as well.

Levanto finished, we were actually free to continue a journey of our own.  I wanted to try to finish this out- the semester had been so successful in the academic program. But after The theft of Kevin's briefcase and his mother’s death Oct 19, we already had some real sadness on the journey.  My mother fell in late September and had clearly taken a turn for the worse all term, though she was back in her home, finally consenting to full time help. And then why wasn’t I getting better?  I still felt in a dilemma how to proceed. Kevin wanted to see Venice so we headed there and hoped for the best.

I don't have time for pictures but did post them on Facebook!